Uchiko / EhimeA Historic City Center Surrounded by Refreshing Nature: Uchiko in Ehime Prefecture

Uchiko’s Historic District Preservation Zone is certainly walkable, but a bicycle tour gives you the option to see more of the area than you might otherwise cover on foot. In the Edo period (1603-1867) this area flourished as a manufacturing center of Japanese wax, and many merchant homes were constructed. Fortunately, most of the homes and businesses have been maintained and remain inhabited to this day.

Next, head out into the countryside on a course that occasionally parallels the Oda River, cuts through rice paddies, and breezes by grandiose old homes seemingly unchanged over the past several centuries. Multi-gear bicycles are provided, but the largely flat terrain here makes the tour easy for anyone to enjoy.

Upon arriving to this special place in Uchiko’s countryside, one hardly sees any buildings given the thicket of greenery forming a protective leafy enclosure. This is entirely appropriate though, as walking up the short path through the petit forest of trees and bushes drives home the fact that at Farm Inn Raum Kokuriko, you leave the busy world behind and step into a tranquil setting of warmth and genuine hospitality.

Mr. and Mrs. Morinaga built their inn from the ground up decades ago. Just four Western-style rooms are available within two architecturally unique structures near the main residence, ensuring a private and restful stay. As both farmers and veterans in green tourism, the couple encourage their guests to “rediscover human nature in modern country life,” and are happy to share unusual ways to do just that, such as special tree leaves that can be written on with Mr. Morinaga’s magic pencils!

Up in the mountains of Uchiko, this small mountain shrine is accessible by a short path from the roadway. Short, however, does not equate with simple, for a true climb awaits! The trail starts off easy, with steps along the path guiding you up the mountain slope. Then the path winds through giant boulders up to a series of wooden ladders which provide access to the final hurdle.

To summit the giant boulder and reach the shrine, a bit of rock climbing is required, clutching on to a metal chain as you search for footholds and handholds. But at the top you’ll find the small Darari Gongen Shrine and a majestic view of the valley. This experience is very similar to the practices of Japan’s mountain ascetics, who sought spiritual development through rigorous mountain training.

Waterfalls have always held a sort of mystical appeal in Japan. Long before modern research revealed the health-generating benefit of their negative ions, Japanese regarded waterfalls as spiritual places, and revered their environment. At Uchiko’s Momiji-ga-taki Falls, a small shrine sits just in front of the falls, and the waterfall basin is often used for misogi, or waterfall training, a Shinto practice of ritual purification by sitting directly under the falling water.

While it is possible to experience misogi here, even casual visitors can enjoy these gentle falls that are only about a five-minute walk from the road. Japanese maple trees (momiji) surround the waterfall basin, making it an especially popular place to visit in the autumn.

Tarai udon is a popular dish in the Oda area of Uchiko. Soft udon (wheat) noodles are served in a tarai, a sort of small wooden tub, with a cup of special broth on the side that is used for dipping. This broth is generally made with a base of soy sauce and seasoned by shiitake mushroom dashi, making it an excellent choice for vegetarians, though versions with are available meat too.

When you’re in Oda, stop by the Michi-no-Eki (roadside station) “Oda-no-Sato Seseragi” and head around back to restaurant Kajika-tei to try their take on tarai udon. Here you can dine both inside and outdoors, and the tables outside overlook the small Oda River running down below.

Deep in the upper reaches of Uchiko’s mountainous eastern corner lies an incredible treasure—the Odamiyama Valley. This is a popular place for nature walks, with a 1.5-kilometer long path tracing the river which has been carving out the gorge for millennia. Regardless of the season, you’ll find incredible natural beauty and signs of wildlife as you inhale the fresh, clean mountain air and hear the roar of the rushing waters.

Go with a local guide, however, and you’ll gain a very different perspective. They’ll point out the presence of five different colors of stone that are a unique characteristic of the riverbed, or the slow but unrelenting power of trees whose roots have managed to split giant stone builders. Or, play like children in the area once did, making tiny boats out of bamboo grass leaves and see how far they manage to sail downstream.